Beckman's Gasthof

A summary of the Beckman's explorations in our new Tiffin Phaeton.

Saturday, July 28, 2007

Upper Kenai Peninsula (Portage Valley, Kenai Lake)




July 22, we said goodbye to Anchorage, warm weather, shorts and tank tops. The drive south from Anchorage on the Seward Highway is some of the most scenic drives in Alaska. The road goes along the edge of Turnagain Arm (a large body of water that is an extension of Cook’s Inlet and was formed by glaciers). Both sides of the water have steep cliffs that still have glaciers that are visible. This is a great area for viewing Dall sheep and Beluga Whales (we didn’t see any this trip). Eight years ago we spent 5 days in this area and saw sheep and the bore tide among other local sites. The bore tide is a wave of water that rushes into the sound at the changing of the tides and can reach a height of six feet and travel at a speed of 10 knots or more. When we previously saw it, it only had a height of a foot or so.
Our destination was Williwaw National Forest CG. We had been told by many people that this was their favorite CG in Alaska. We could see why. The secluded sites had views of a large nearby glacier with waterfalls coming down the steep cliffs.
It was a wonderful, quiet, peaceful stay, except for one wildlife adventure. We were awaken one morning by the rocking back and forth of the motor home. We figured a raccoon, large bird, or some other animal must be on top of the motor home. We sleep with the blackout curtains down so as to keep out the light, so we didn’t even investigate as to what caused the rocking. Later we found out that a black bear had tried to break into the campground host’s RV. John checked the outside of our RV, and sure enough, there were paw prints on the side, right below the kitchen. (Pris had been lead to believe that bears don’t try to get into RVs. So much for that theory.) We do not have a firearm but we do have bear spray. We would only use it in a real emergency. Most of the Alaskans that we talked with, do carry a gun with them.
The one drawback to the CG was that it rained everyday. I guess it’s typical of the Portage Glacier Valley.
There was a salmon viewing platform over the nearby creek, to see salmon running on their way up stream to spawn. We checked it every day, but it was too early for the salmon to be this far up from the ocean yet.
We were a short distance from Portage Lake and Portage Glacier. The visitor’s center was built on the lake, just 1 mile from the glacier, but because of the melting of the glacier, it has retreated so much that it is no longer visible from the visitor’s center. (You really see evidence of global warming in the shrinking of all the glaciers.)
We spent 3 days at Williwaw and then drove 55 miles south on July 25 to Quartz Creek NF Campground located on the Kenai Lake.
People were a little excited when we arrived at our campsite. Come to find out a sow grizzle and her twin two-year old cubs tired to get into a camper when the occupants were inside. I guess they rocked the camper back and forth for quite awhile trying to get inside. They had cleaned fish near their camper and they were separated from other campers. Even the Alaskan campers were amazed at this happening. I guess it’s an uncommon occurrence. ( I hope)
We spent 2 days along the Kenai Lake and River. Salmon season is in full swing and this is THE PLACE to catch salmon on their way up the river to spawn. The world record salmon of 97 pounds was caught just down the road. They use the term combat fishing as people are lined up next to each other along the banks of the river. It was pretty busy, but we were told that the “reds” would be at their best next week and there would be many more people.
On our walk along the creek next to the CG we could see bright red salmon spawning. What a complicated life cycle they have. All that work and now they die.

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